Om hand warmers

Matt (my best friend) just finished his 200-hour yoga teacher training at the beginning of June.  So, being the crafty friend I am, decided to make him a yoga-themed gift.  Using my knowledge of his love for hand warmers and all things Om-related I set off to make him the perfect gift.  And...the Om hand warmers were born!

He absolutely loved them and can't wait for it to get a bit cooler to wear them.  (I'm also hoping to do a photo shoot with him to get some swanky yoga-riffic photos!)

Since he loved them so much, I really wanted to share the love and share my pattern and Om chart with you!  So without further ado, here is the recipe for my Om hand warmers!  Enjoy!

As always, feel free to sell items you make from my patterns, but please do not claim this pattern as your own, post any parts of it or the whole thing in other locations, or sell the pattern. :)

Gauge: roughly 7 rows = 1 inch; 7 stitches = 1 inch on size 7 needles.  The Om chart is 20 stitches by 17 rows and this measured 3 inches (stitches) by 2.5 inches (rows).
Needles: US size 7 and US size 9 or size need to obtain gauge
Yarn: Aran or Worsted weight

You can use any yarn and needle combination that you like.  If you use thinner yarn, increase the cast on stitches by 2 until you have enough to fit nicely around your palm, above your thumb.  These mitts are meant to be fitted to the hand--so if you'd like them looser, increase your cast on.

This hasn't be tested by others, so please let me know if you find any errors!

Mitt Instructions


Cast on 34 on 9s.
Switch to size 7s on the first round of knitting.
Join in the round, place marker for the beginning of the round.
Rounds 1-12: K1P1 ribbing
Rounds 13-24: Knit

This should get you to up to the base of your thumb or slightly higher.  You'll now begin to work back and forth in rounds.  DO NOT JOIN the next 13 rows.  You're creating the thumb opening.




Rows 25-37: Alternate a knit row and a purl row, continuing in stockinette stitch but in rows, ending with a knit row.  You can slip the first stitch of each row to create a nice edge if you'd like.

In more detail:
Rows 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, and 37: Knit
Rows 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, and 36: Purl

[This section leave the hole for your thumb.  If you have a smaller or larger thumb (or different row gauge) adjust the number of rows--adjust by increments of 2 rows.]

After Row 37 join to the beginning of the round and start knitting again in rounds.




Rounds 38-47: Knit (this is 10 rounds in stockinette stitch)
Rounds 48-51: K1P1 ribbing


BO in pattern using size 9 needles, or stretchy bind-off of your choosing.

Repeat for the second mitt.

Adding the Om on the front of the mitts
Us the following chart to duplicate stitch the Om on the front of the mitt.  Remember that you'll need at least 20 stitches by 17 rows to complete the chart.  Try the mitt on first before stitching.  I found it worked nicely to have the side of the Om closest to the thumb opening begin about 2 or 3 stitches inside.

I'd love to see your finished hand warmers!

A Recipe for a Towel Topper

Over the past 3 or 4 years I have given my mom towels for the kitchen as a Christmas gift.  Each year she loves them.  Maybe it is the practicality of them or the handmade-ness.  Whatever the reason is, I always know that they will be a hit.

One of the things that I had always wanted to make was a towel that hangs on the fridge.  I've made a knit versions before--these and these, but I had always wanted to use an actual towel because I find them to be more absorbent.  I just needed to attempt to "top a towel." 

I had read some tutorials...they all involved cutting a dish towel in half and then crocheting over the cut side to make the topper...and that is great and all, but I didn't want to have a raw edge.  So I went to the store and bought some "bar mop towels" to use instead.  These are smaller than dish towels (definitely length-wise smaller maybe width-wise too) and have a finished edge on all sides.  

Now I needed to decide what to use to pierce the fabric so I could crochet the topper.  Should I use scissors? Purchase a sharp crochet hook? Use a needle and thread?  I remembered that I had purchased a skip stitch blade for my rotary cutter a month or two ago to use on a blanket edging...and I wondered if I could use that to top the towels too!

So, I got out my self-healing cutting mat, my rotary cutter, and the skip stitch blade and gave it a try.  The blade did go through the layers of the finished edge with adequate pressure--which is totally great! I then tried different sized crochet hooks to figure out which was best for this project--I ended up settling on a G hook with worsted weight yarn.  The G hook allows the tension in that first row to begin to ripple the towel.

I found that the best placement for the holes was sort of in the middle of the finished edge--not too close to the end of the towel.  Going in more, toward the body of the towel isn't terrible....you'll just need to adjust your tension on your first row of single crochets.

Now, so far I've tried 4 different towels and I get different numbers of holes in the pass with the skip stitch blade.  Sometimes it is 25, sometimes 27, sometimes 28, etc.  Because of this, I can't post an exact "pattern" for the topper--at least for the starting row, but I can give you a recipe on what to do.

Materials:

-Bar mop sized towel

-worsted weight yarn

-size G crochet hook

-a smaller crochet hook and maybe a pointy one just in case.

-a yarn needle for sewing in ends

-a button

-needle and thread

-skip stitch blade and rotary cutter

-self-healing cutting mat

Directions:

Place your cutting mat on a sturdy hard surface.  

Load the skip stitch blade into the rotary cutter.

Run the blade along the top finished edge of the towel, approximately in the middle of the finished edge.

Be sure to make a hole close to the beginning and close to the end of the towel (where the finished edge is the thickest).

Crochet one row of single crochets across the top of the towel--this is where you work directly into the holes you just created.

Crochet one more row of single crochets and take note of the number of stitches in the row.

Now, here comes the recipe.

Recalling the number of stitches in your row...is it even or odd?

If it is even, figure out where the middle of your row is, you will be working a double crochet two together decrease on these two stitches.

Chain 2 (this does not count as a double crochet).  Double crochet two together, then double crochet until you reach 1 stitch before your middle two stitches (aka work right up to the middle two stitches).  Double crochet these two together, and then double crochet until there are two more stitches left to work.  Double crochet these together.

For example, if you end up with 28 stitches, the middle stitches are the 14th and 15th stitch, so you will be decreasing these two together.  So what you would do would be ch 2, dc2tog, dc 11, dc2tog, dc 11, dc2tog.  This will leave you with 25 stitches.

If you have an odd number of stitches in your row you can ignore finding the middle two stitches and work as follows:
ch 2 (doesn't count as a dc), dc2tog, dc across until there are two stitches left to work, dc2tog.

Example: 29: ch 2, dc2tog, dc 25 times, dc2tog, resulting in 27 stitches.

Did you follow that?  What you want is to end up with an odd stitch count.  If my method confuses you, decrease any way you'd like as long as you have an odd number in the first row of double crochets.

The "pattern" really starts when you have 25 stitches in your previous row.

Just as before, the chain 2 in the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.

Once you have 25 stitches....
--Ch 2, dc2tog, dc 21 times, dc2tog, turn. (23 stitches)
--Ch 2, dc2tog, dc 19 times, dc2tog, turn (21 stitches).
--Ch 2, *dc2tog, dc* repeat from * to * across, turn (14 stitches).
--Ch 2, dc2tog across, turn (7 stitches).
--Ch 2, dc2tog, 3 dc, dc2tog, turn (5 stitches).

Now you start the band that will wrap around your refrigerator handle.
--Ch 2, 5 dc across, turn.

Repeat this until it is slightly shorter than the desired length.

Begin the button hole part:
--Ch 1, 5 sc across, turn.
--Ch 4, join with slip stitch to the 5th sc in the previous row.

Fasten off and weave in ends!
Sew on a button and enjoy.

I do apologize if any of this "recipe" is confusing--let me know if you have any issues!  I hope you all have fun making your towel toppers!

Thermal Tweed Scarf

Maybe it is just me, but I have trouble finding scarves that look "manly."  When I make something for a guy I'm always worried that he isn't going to like it or maybe he will find it too feminine.  (I'm not one for gender labeling, but you never know how a recipient of a gift will feel.)  Well, I think that I found a nice manly/gender neutral scarf.

I present to you, the knit Thermal Tweed Scarf.

Supplies:
3 skeins of Vanna's choice tweed yarn
Size 9 and 10.5 knitting needles
Gauge: 16 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch (on size 9 needles or whatever size gives you gauge)
yarn needle for weaving in ends.

Instructions:
Cast on 31 stitches using the larger needles then switch to smaller needles to knit the scarf.  (If you'd like a wider or skinnier scarf just make sure that the cast on number of stitches is an odd number.)

Just as a note, the first and last stitch will make the border of the scarf.

Row 1: K1, *K1, P1*, repeat * to * until 1 stitch before end, K1.
Row 2: K1, *P1, K1* , repeat * to * until the end.
Row 3: K all stitches
Row 4: K all stitches.

Repeat this pattern until about a half inch from desired length.  A good idea of the "proper" scarf length is the height of the person wearing it or just a tiny bit shorter.  This will allow it to be wrapped around the neck or halved and then slipped through.

Once you reach this length, repeat Row 1 and Row 2 and then bind off knit wise using the larger needle.

Weave in ends and enjoy!


Here is a close up of the detail of the pattern and how it looks in the tweed yarn.  Nice and textured, but still simple and clean looking!

Teething/nursing necklace

What a busy month December has been! Between school work, crafting gifts, and preparing for the holidays I've simply not been able to find the time to blog! (But that doesn't mean that I haven't been thinking about you guys :)).  I've actually been working on a few new patterns that you'll hear about today and in the next few days/weeks.  There will also be a few "ta-da" moments when I'll present my finished Christmas gifts, but that will definitely come after Christmas so I don't spoil any surprises!

So without further ado, I present you with my new pattern for a teething/nursing necklace!

Here is the back story...about a week and a half ago my friend asked me if I could make a necklace that she could wear when she is feeding her 5 month old son, because he is so alert that he is getting distracted by all the visuals in the room as he is eating.  She showed me a picture of something she found online and asked if I could make something similar.  The necklace she showed me had wooden beads of different sizes, wooden beads covered by crochet, and a crocheted cord.  A necklace like this would also be good when he starts teething.  She told me that she wanted a few beads and gave me the supplies (a ribbon and the wooden beads) to use for the necklace.  The colors she wanted were blues and greens.  Now, since I'm trying to use yarn that is in my stash, I looked to see what I had in those colors.  Turns out I had a nice amount of Vanna's choice.  Then I tried to find a pattern to crochet around a wooden bead, using aran weight yarn...but I couldn't find one.  So....I made my own!

Supplies:
What you'll need are some wooden beads--I used round 1 inch wooden beads--you can find these at a craft store.

Aran (or worsted) weight yarn, like Vanna's choice.

A G crochet hook.

Some ribbon or extra yarn to chain a necklace

And a yarn needle for sewing in ends/threading beads onto the necklace.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

sc2tog = single crochet 2 together

ss = slip stitch

Gauge: Not really important, but try not to crochet TOO tightly as it will be harder to get the bead inside the crocheted outer "cup."

The beads are actually very simple to make.  They are worked in the round, so do not join the rounds with ss.

Round 1: Start by ch 3, and ss to the first stitch to make a tiny loop.

Round 2: Make 6 sc into this loop.(6 sc)

Round 3: Make 2 sc into each stitch in the previous round (12 sc).

Round 4: Make *2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next* around (18 sc).

Round 5: sc in each stitch around (18 sc).

Round 6: *sc2tog, sc* around (12 sc).

Up until this point you have not worked with the bead.  You'll place the wooden bead into this little crocheted "cup" during the next round.

What you have should look something like this

Begin Round 7: sc2og around (6 sc)-- when you've completed maybe 2 of the 6 stitches in this round, insert the bead.

Push the bead inside.

I've found it works better to pull up the "cup" over the bead as you work the sc2tog. 

When all the stitches of Round 7 are complete, join to the next stitch (aka the first stitch of round 7) with a ss.

Tuck in ends.  I found it works well to place a crochet hook through the center of the bead/covering so that you can sew in the ends.  This also makes sure that everything lines up appropriately.

For my necklace I made 7 beads in different colors.

Next, string them on to your desired length of ribbon.  Rather not use a ribbon? Chain a desired amount with a yarn of your choice and string the beads on that.  Want to mix in some wooden non-crocheted beads too? Go ahead! :).  To clean it, you can soak it in cool water and let it dry.

Happy crocheting!  Feel free to use this pattern as you please, just do not reproduce the text or pictures without my permission.

Crochet Couch Caddy

Last year I had gotten a request to create a crocheted couch caddy to hold remotes and other TV items.  I did a quick look online and  didn't find any existing patterns, so I decided to make up one on my own.  It really is a simple pattern and quite easy to customize.  I hope you enjoy making couch caddies!  And as always, let me know if you need something clarified!

**To make a wider caddy, just add chains.  This stitch pattern is worked in multiples of 1.**

Couch Caddy

Dimensions: 10-12 inches wide by a few feet.  Height depends on size of couch arm.

Gauge not important for this project as it is quite customizable.

Materials

-About 550 yards of Aran or Worsted weight yarn.  You’ll be using two strands held together.

-M/N (9.0 mm) or size to give a fabric you like.

-Stitch markers or something to secure the pocket portion in place while you edge the caddy.

-Needle to sew in ends.

**American crochet terms are used in this pattern**

Skills needed:

-Chain

-Double crochet

-Reverse single crochet (aka crab stitch)

Abbreviations:

-CH - chain

-DC – double crochet

-TC – turning chain

-RSC – reverse single crochet

Instructions:

How to determine your caddy’s length:

This pattern allows for about a 1 foot deep pocket.  Measure over the arm of your couch or chair where you wish to use the caddy.  Determine the length that you’d like to dangle off the arm and measure down under the couch cushion.  The end of the caddy will be tucked under the cushion so that it does not slip off.  Add 1 ft to this measurement for the pocket.

Holding two strands of yarn together throughout the pattern…

Row 1: CH 22 (or desired width of caddy).

Row 2: DC in 3rd chain from hook.  DC across.  CH2, turn (20 DC).

Row 3: DC in space between the two DCs in the row below.  You’ll be just about next to the TC.  (See picture).

As you start the row, it will look like this:

You want to go between these first two stitches.

DC in each space across until you reach the space between the previous row’s DC before the TC.  DO NOT DC in this space.  DC in the top of the turning chain. CH2, turn. (20 DC and 1 TC).

Here is a diagram of what you're doing.  Start at the bottom left hand and work back and forth as you go up.  See how the first DC is made between the first two DC and the last is made in the TC, not next to it.

Row 4: Repeat row 3 until the caddy is the desired length, explained above.

Assembly:

-Fold the top of the caddy (where the working yarn is) down about a foot and align the edges.

-Secure on each side using stitch markers or safety pins or binder clips…or the like.

-Begin to RSC all around the caddy.  When you get to the double thickness of the pocket and back of the caddy, be sure to crochet through both layers.

-Once you RSC all around, slip stitch to the beginning RSC.

-Cut yarn and tuck in ends.

If you’d like, you can also sew a line between the pocket and the back to create a divider in the caddy.

Baby Theta Hat

As you might know, I am a PhD student.  My field of study is measurement, evaluation, and statistics which are all parts of educational measurement and psychometrics.  Now I'm about to get a little bit technical, but hang in there :).  Psychometrics is the study of test development and psychological measurement.  We study how to measure things like knowledge, abilities, and personality traits--which are all things that you can't see or observed and are also called latent traits or variables.  In one type of analysis called item response theory (IRT) ability is estimated by responses on a test.  This ability is represented by the variable theta.  When you estimate a theta, this estimated variable is called "theta hat."

Ok, here is where the knitting part comes in! Are you still with me :).  Well, a few weeks ago I got this funny idea to make my friends' son a theta hat!  This is the little boy that I made the football hat for :).  His dad, Brian, is also in my PhD program and he works at the company where I intern.  I just knew that Brian would get such a kick out of his son wearing a "theta hat!"  Sooooo I decided to make my own theta hat pattern! Annnnnd...without further ado, I present to you my pattern for a Baby Theta Hat.

Feel free to sell any items made from this pattern, just please do not sell this pattern itself.  Also, if you find any corrections, please let me know! :)

Baby Theta Hat

Size: 0 – 12 months (approximately)

Finished dimensions: Height = 5.5 inches (not including pompom).  Relaxed circumference of about 15.5 inches, but stretches to over 20 inches.  

Gauge: 18 stitches by 24 rows = 4in on size 8 needles.

Material: 

• Aran or Worsted weight yarn in a main color and a contrasting color.

• Size 8 circular needles—either 1 long circular for magic loops, 2 circulars, or dpns—or sized needed to achieve gauge.

• Size H crochet hook

• stitch marker

• needle to sew in ends

Skills needed: 

• Knit stitch

• purl stitch

• knit two together (k2tog)

• knitting in the round

• Surface slip stitch crochet. (You can find some good tutorials online).

Abbreviations:

• CO – Cast on

• K – knit

• P – Purl

• K2tog – knit two together

Instructions:

Using larger needles and main color yarn CO 60 stitches, place marker, and join in the round.  

Round 1: K1, P1 around.

Round 2: P1, K1 around.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for 1 inch.

Next round: K all stitches around (60 stitches).

Repeat this round (aka K all stitches around) until piece measures about 3.75 inches from the beginning.

Crown shaping:

Round 1: (K8, k2tog) repeat this around (54 stitches).

Round 2: K all stitches (54 stitches).

Round 3: (K7, k2tog) repeat this around (48 stitches).

Round 4: K all stitches (48 stitches).

Round 5: (K6, k2tog) repeat this around (42 stitches).

Round 6: K all stitches (42 stitches).

Round 7: (K5, k2tog) repeat this around (36 stitches).

Round 8: K all stitches (36 stitches).

Round 9: (K4, k2tog) repeat this around (30 stitches).

Round 10: K all stitches (30 stitches).

Round 11: (K3, k2tog) repeat this around (24 stitches).

Round 12: K all stitches (24 stitches).

Round 13: (K2, k2tog) repeat this around (18 stitches).

Round 14: K all stitches (18 stitches).

Cut yarn and leave a long tail.  Thread the tail through all of the stitches on the needle, pull tightly, tie securely, and tuck ends in on the reverse side.

Theta detail on hat:

Using contrasting color yarn yarn, tie a slipknot in the yarn and place yarn inside the hat (right side of hat is facing you).  Decide on placement of theta on the hat and begin surface slip stitch crocheting the theta.

Secure ends when you’re done by weaving them into the reverse side of the contrasting color stitches only.  I’ve found that they tend to show if worked into the main color.

Make pompom:

Using both the main color and contrasting color yarn.  Wrap both strands around 3-4 fingers on your hand a bunch of times (maybe 15).  Cut a long piece of the main color yarn and wrap around the bundle of yarn that is on your fingers.  Slip the bundle off your fingers.  Tie a knot in the middle of this bundle with the main color yarn.  Make sure this knot is very tight.  Begin cutting all of the loops of yarn.  Once all of the loops are cut, give the pompom a trim into a nice round shape.  Align the pompom to the top of the hat and thread the long tails of the main color into the inside of the hat at the top.  Tie a knot inside the hat and secure the ends. 

 

Owl Cup Cozy

Lately I've been on a mission to try and use up as much of my yarn stash as possible.  I'm really liking the way that this task forces my creativity to flow since I can't just go out and buy the "correct" yarn.  I've been wanting to make myself a reusable coffee cup cozy for some time now, but just never got around to doing it.  If you don't know by now, I'm sort of obsessed with owls....(and purple! especially purple owls...ok, I digress..)...so what better to make as a coffee cozy, but something with an owl on it! To get REALLY creative, I decided to design my own owl, rather than use an existing pattern.  So on Sunday I got my bag of Vanna's choice out and got to work.  The main part of the cozy is a very simple pattern (just single crochets and some crab stitch) and then I made a little owl and sewed him on!

Here's the pattern for what I did...it hasn't been tested, so if there are any errors in it let me know and I'll fix it :).  Also, as always, feel free to use my pattern as you like, but please DO NOT copy my pattern, call it your own, or plagiarize me in any way...it will make me very sad :(...so link to my pattern rather than copying it somewhere.

Happy crocheting!

Owl Cup Cozy
Finished size: Fits around a paper coffee cup.  I used a Starbucks cup as a measure of the cup it fits.

Materials:
• Aran or worsted weight yarn.  I used leftovers, so I’m not sure of the exact yardage requirements.  Use up scraps and make it colorful!
• Size I and F crochet hooks
• Buttons for eyes.
• Needle to sew in ends.

Skills needed:
• Single crochet
• Double crochet
• Slip stitch
• Crochet in the round and by rows.
• Magic ring.

Abbreviations:
• CH – chain
• SC – single crochet
• HDC – half double crochet
• DC – double crochet
• TR – treble crochet
• DTR – double treble crochet
• SS – slip stitch
• SC2tog – single crochet two together
• RSC – reverse single crochet

Instructions:

For the cozy—CH 31 or amount to fit around cup, preferably at the thinner part of the cup.
Round 1: Join as a round and SC in each stitch around join with a SS to the first SC in the round (30 stitches or 1 less than your chain amount).
Round 2: Ch 1, SC in same stitch as SS of last row.  SC around (30 sc).
Repeat for 11 rounds.   For round 12, RSC (aka crab stitch) around.  Break yarn.  Now move to the bottom of the cozy, on the parts of the beginning CH that are visible, RSC around.  Break yarn and sew in ends.

Owl body:
Round 1: Using magic ring, CH2 (does not count as a stitch), 12 DC in ring.  Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first DC, NOT the beginning chain. Pull ring closed.
Round 2:  2 DC in each DC around (24 DC), join with a slip stitch to the first DC in round.
Now begin to work in rows.
Row 1: CH 2, (1 DC in next stitch, 2 DC in next stitch) repeat until the end, 1 DC in last stitch. (10 stitches)
Row 2: Turn, CH1, 2SC in first DC, 1 SC in the next 8 stitches, 2 SC in the last DC.

SS around the entire owl body.  Leave a long tail for sewing to the cozy later.

Owl tummy:
CH 3.
Round 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in next chain.  Then 3 more SC in last chain.  Working on the back side of the foundation chain, SC in each chain.  Then 3 SC in other end of the chain. (You’re making an oval.)
Round 2: [You’ll be flowing the same idea as the first round—SC in the “side” stitches and make more stitches at the end.] So, SC in next 3 SCs.  You should be at the 3 SC made at the end of the row in the previous round.  2SC in first stitch, 3SC in end stitch, 2 SC in third stitch.  Then 1 SC in each of the next 4 SCs.  Repeat the end 2-3-2 process at the other end—2 SC in 1st of the 3 stitch group, 3 SC in the next, and 2 SC in the last.  Then SC in remaining stitch.  Join together with a SS and fasten off.

Wing:
CH 8
SC in 2nd chain from hook, HDC in next stitch, DC in next two stitches, TR in next 2 stitches, in last stitch [2 DTR, 1DC, 1SC] fasten off.

Eyes (make 2):
Using magic ring, CHs 2, 7 DC in ring, join to top of the chain. Pull ring closed.  Fasten off.

Beak:
Using smaller hook CH 4.
SC in 2nd chain from hook (3 stitches).
SC2tog then SC in last stitch (2 stitches).
SC2tog (1 stitch).
Fasten off.

Assemble owl before attaching to cup cozy.  Tuck ends in.

Baby Football Hat

One of my friends at school/work asked me to make his 3 month old son a football hat.  He told me that his wife really liked the other two I made and is a big football fan.  I didn't see a pattern online that I liked, so I decided to make my own.  I think this will fit a baby up to 12 months because it is quite stretchy.

Baby Football Hat

Size: 0 – 12 months 

Finished dimensions: Height = 6 inches.  Relaxed circumference of about 13 inches, but stretches to over 16 inches.  

Gauge: 18 stitches by 24 rows = 4in on size 8 needles.

Material: 

• Aran or Worsted weight yarn in brown and white.

• Size 7 and 8 circular needles—either 1 long circular for magic loop, 2 circulars, or dpns—or sized needed to achieve gauge.

• Size F crochet hook

• stitch marker

• needle to sew in ends

Skills needed: 

• Knit stitch

• purl stitch

• knit two together (k2tog)

• color changing

• knitting in the round

• Surface slip stitch crochet. (You can find some good tutorials online).

Abbreviations:

• CO – Cast on

• K – knit

• P – Purl

• K2tog – knit two together

Instructions:

Using larger needles and white yarn CO 60 stitches, place marker, and join in the round.  

Switch to smaller needles.

Rounds 1-6: K2, P2 around (60 stitches).

At end of 6th round cut white and leave a tail.  Join brown yarn.  Switch to larger needles.

Round 7:  K all stitches around (60 stitches).

Repeat row 7 until piece measures about 3.5 inches from the beginning.

Switch back to white yarn.

Next 2 rounds: K all stitches around (60 stitches).

Crown shaping:

Round 1: (K8, k2tog) repeat this around (54 stitches).

Round 2: K all stitches (54 stitches).

Round 3: (K7, k2tog) repeat this around (48 stitches).

Round 4: K all stitches (48 stitches).

Switch to brown yarn.

Round 5: (K6, k2tog) repeat this around (42 stitches).

Round 6: K all stitches (42 stitches).

Round 7: (K5, k2tog) repeat this around (36 stitches).

Round 8: K all stitches (36 stitches).

Round 9: (K4, k2tog) repeat this around (30 stitches).

Round 10: K all stitches (30 stitches).

Round 11: (K3, k2tog) repeat this around (24 stitches).

Round 12: K all stitches (24 stitches).

Round 13: (K2, k2tog) repeat this around (18 stitches).

Round 14: K all stitches (18 stitches).

Cut yarn and leave a long tail.  Thread the tail through all of the stitches on the needle, pull tightly, tie securely, and tuck ends in on the reverse side.

Lace detail on hat:

Using white yarn, tie a slipknot in the yarn and place yarn inside the hat (right side of hat is facing you).  

Two brown rows up from the ribbing begin surface slip stitch crochet and slip stitch until you’re two rows of brown away from the white stripe. 

Cut a white leaving a VERY long tail, and pull the last loop of white out towards you.  

Thread needle and bring the tail back inside the hat so that the working yarn is now on the wrong side. 

Working about 2 stitches away from the slip stitched line bring yarn up to outside of the hat, under the slip stitch in that row, and down inside the hat two stitches away from the slip stitched line.  This makes one of the laces.  Repeat this as many times as you’d like, equally spacing the laces.

Secure end when you’re done.

Tuck in all ends on inside of the hat.

Zergling-inis!

The first set of Zergling-inis are on their way to Canada to meet their new owner :).  I really hope that they have a good trip and are happy in Canada :).

I'll miss you guys!!!

Fruit Cozy with Ties

I created this pattern because I was looking for a type of fruit cozy that could be adjusted to fit different sized fruit and did not include buttons.  It is free on my Ravelry store too!  If you make them, let me know.  I would love to see your finished products!!

Fruit Cozy with Ties

This is a crochet pattern for a fruit cozy with ties.  It can be adjusted to fit different size fruit.  Ties may be placed where desired.

Yarn: Worsted weight

Hook size: G-6

Stitches & abbreviation used
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
sl: slip stitch
ch: chain
sc2tog: single crochet two together
adjustable ring (see http://www.stitchdiva.com/custom.aspx?id=54 for a good tutorial)

Special stitches:
Make tie: [ch 21, sl in 2^nd chain from hook and across (20 sl)]. 
Directions

Round 1: Begin using the adjustable ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 14 dc in ring. Sl to chain 3 of beginning chain.  (15 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 and dc in same stich. 2 dc in each dc around.  Sl to chain 3 of beginning chain. (30 dc)

Round 3: Ch 2, hdc in back loop only (BLO) around.  Sl to top chain of ch 2. (30 hdc).

**From here on do not join rounds, work back and forth in rows**

Round 4: Ch 2, hdc in BLO around, DO NOT JOIN (30 hdc). Turn.

Round 5: Ch 2, hdc in front loop only (FLO) around.  DO NOT JOIN. Turn (30 hdc).

Rounds 6-9: Repeat rounds 4 & 5 two more times.  (add more repeats if you wish to make a taller cozy).

Round 10: Ch1, sc2tog around, BLO (15 sc). Turn

Round 11: Ch 1, sc FLO around (15 sc). Turn.

Round 12: (edging round)

• ·      Ch 1, sc in both loops across (15 sc).
• ·      Make tie.
• ·      Sc in last stitch you sc’d in.
• ·      Place 8 sc on edge of cozy around opening, until you reach the 6^th round.  [If you want to place ties in a different position, sc until you get to that spot].
• ·      Make tie.
• ·      Sc in last stitch you sc’d in.
• ·      Sc around until you reach 6^th round on other side of cozy.
• ·      Make tie.
• ·      Sc in last stitch you sc’d in.
• ·      Sc until you reach top of cozy.
• ·      Make tie.
• ·      Sl in 1^st sc of the 12^th round.

Finishing: Cut yarn and bind off.  Weave in ends.